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Exhibitions · 2024

Eight Stories in Scent at Letters from 221B Baker Street: Scents of Shadow

Published
Language
English
Reading time
7 min
Read this piece in Vietnamese: Đọc bằng tiếng Việt

First published in Vietnamese on 18 December 2024. Translated in 2026 and kept to the original.

Since then:

  • The exhibition “Letters from 221B Baker Street: Scents of Shadow” in Ho Chi Minh City (December 2024) has closed.
  • This piece was written when Shadow Éclat was still to become Rei Nguyen’s sixth niche fragrance; it was officially released in February 2025.
Hundreds of letter pages hanging around a copper-sheened mesh form, with a card for The Napoleon of Crime, at the 221B exhibition

Following her successful solo olfactory exhibition “Pluviophile – The Rain Lover”, Rei Nguyen will now take you on an adventure full of surprises, in which a mystery unfolds one scent at a time: “Letters from 221B Baker Street: Scents of Shadow”. Inspired by the timeless pages of Conan Doyle, the exhibition promises to draw visitors into a world of scent steeped in mystery. Its scents are doors onto a thrilling journey into the tense stories of two rival geniuses, Sherlock Holmes and James Moriarty. The exhibition is an olfactory excursion, and also a story told in the language of fragrance. Rei Nguyen, founder of R Parfums, has deftly woven together echoes of good and evil, light and darkness, in a creative space rich in metaphor. Taking these two emblematic characters as her starting point, she has made eight scents, each one a story, a feeling carefully distilled. From Sherlock’s sharp, cool intellect to Moriarty’s cunning and malice, every layer of scent invites you inside two great minds. With its eight distinctive scents, “Letters from 221B Baker Street” leads visitors through every shade of feeling, bringing memories, imaginings and reflections back to life.

A visitor stands lost in thought among hanging letter pages under pink-orange light at the 221B exhibitionA brain-shaped sculpture of copper-sheened mesh on a glass plinth, among hanging letter pages
A visitor stands lost in thought among hanging letter pages under pink-orange light at the 221B exhibition · A brain-shaped sculpture of copper-sheened mesh on a glass plinth, among hanging letter pages

1. London Fog – In the smoke and fog of London

London has always been a city both ancient and modern, known above all for its silver rain and the fog that wraps around it. A hazy, dreamlike scent, like water reflecting waves that stir and settle, London Fog recalls the dark, fog-bound streets of London at night. It is a moment of tension between the real and the unreal, between light and darkness. A fresh ozonic note feels like stepping into the cold, still air of early morning. The middle, with orange blossom and white lily of the valley, is soft yet no less mysterious. When the base comes in, the warmth of amber and Sichuan pepper sounds like a slow, lilting melody, leading the imagination towards stories not yet told. A scent of the unreal and the real, of the clear and the dim: hazy, opening fresh, softly floral, ending warm and mysterious. Top notes: Ozone, Fog Accord, Petitgrain. Middle notes: Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom. Base notes: Sichuan Pepper, Amber.

A red card reading “London Fog – In the smoke and fog of London”, hanging above a small glass globeClose-up of the London Fog card listing its notes, above a glass globe hanging among letter pages
A red card reading “London Fog – In the smoke and fog of London”, hanging above a small glass globe · Close-up of the London Fog card listing its notes, above a glass globe hanging among letter pages

2. Depict “The Sign of Four” – The sign, decoded

Depict “The Sign of Four” recreates the tense, breathless moments of a Sherlock Holmes investigation. It carries the smell of struggle. Guns. Thick smoke. Yet somewhere there is also a touch of Sherlock’s brooding, his defiance, his nonchalance: a soul content in itself, untouched by the greed and anger of others. This is a scent of tension, of longing, of secrets buried deep beneath the surface. It opens cold and sharp on a “metallic” note, like the tension of a battle of wits. The middle bursts with spice, chaotic yet compelling. The base, with tonka bean and gunsmoke, leaves an echo of release and victory, like a story brought to a satisfying close. A scent of struggle and of the longing for fulfilment: sharp and cold, heavy with spice and smoke, ending warm with tonka bean. Top notes: Metallic Accord. Middle notes: Saffron, Carnation, Nutmeg. Base notes: Blood, Gun Fire, Tonka Bean.

Strips of printed book pages hanging on fine wires in a dark exhibition room, in warm light
Strips of printed book pages hanging on fine wires in a dark exhibition room, in warm light

4. Letters to 221B Baker Street – Addressed to 221B Baker Street, London

The door of 221B Baker Street has seen countless secrets solved, and “Letters to 221B Baker Street” is a tribute to those stories. Rei Nguyen dedicated this scent to her childhood hero, Sherlock Holmes, as a thank-you. To many, he is perhaps only a piece of fiction, a man who never lived. For Rei, though, Sherlock Holmes has shaped much of the way she thinks, and the way she reflects on light and dark, and on life in all its variety. Dear Sherlock, Thank you for always being a hero in my mind, ever since I was small. I did not grow up with dolls and dressing-up, but with stories of light and darkness at war. As for Sherlockians the world over, your influence on how I see the world goes far beyond that of a fictional character. Thank you for your integrity, your wit, your sharpness, your unshakeable faith in justice, and for being a proud and glorious “ghost hero”. Thank you for being part of what my art is made of, on this path of scent. Rei Nguyen. Fresh and refined, ending deep in leather and warm incense. Top notes: Green Mandarin, Lemon, Blackcurrant. Middle notes: Osmanthus Absolute, Geranium, Rose. Base notes: Birch Tar, Ambrette Seed, Leather, Peru Balsam, Tobacco.

A heart-shaped sculpture of copper-sheened mesh hanging among letter pages, carrying a red scent card
A heart-shaped sculpture of copper-sheened mesh hanging among letter pages, carrying a red scent card

5. The Napoleon of Crime – Conqueror of Shadows

Moriarty, “the Napoleon of crime”, arrives in a bold, proud scent. The Napoleon of Crime is darkness on the march, a symphony of power and mystery. If Sherlock Holmes cares for people, James Moriarty is ruthless and unyielding, always set on winning. It opens on fresh pink grapefruit, strong and decisive. The middle, sweet with rose, is the seductive whisper of darkness. As the base spreads, patchouli, incense and leather bring it to a deep close that leaves a lasting mark. Fresh pink grapefruit, sweet rose, ending warm with patchouli and leather. Top notes: Pamplemousse, Pink Grapefruit. Middle note: Rose. Base notes: Cypriol, Patchouli, Incense, Cuir Accord.

Yellow card for The Napoleon of Crime – Conqueror of Shadows, listing rose, grapefruit and patchouliOrange card reading “The Napoleon of Crime – Conqueror of Shadows”, hanging on a red, metallic mesh form
Yellow card for The Napoleon of Crime – Conqueror of Shadows, listing rose, grapefruit and patchouli · Orange card reading “The Napoleon of Crime – Conqueror of Shadows”, hanging on a red, metallic mesh form

6. The Drive – The Final Problem

The Drive is the scent of the last battle, when light and darkness face each other at the fateful moment. It is a scent for those who seek strength and resolve. James Moriarty first appears in the story “The Final Problem”, when Sherlock Holmes uncovers the truth: the mind behind all of England’s crime. What would the problem smell like? The drive behind James Moriarty’s ferocity, his ambition, his refusal to yield? Somewhere in it you will meet the deep, resinous richness of labdanum, a little of the green sweetness of lily and the bite of cassia. The base, with musk, black pepper and labdanum, leaves a strong impression. The scent of “The Final Problem”: fresh, with soft tuberose, ending strong with musk and black pepper. Top notes: Bergamot. Middle notes: Tuberose, Hyacinth. Base notes: Cassia, Musk, Black Pepper, Labdanum Absolute.

Strips of printed book pages hanging on fine wires in a dark exhibition room, in warm light
Strips of printed book pages hanging on fine wires in a dark exhibition room, in warm light

7. The Reichenbach Falls – The bright abyss

The legend of the Reichenbach Falls, where Holmes and Moriarty meet for the last time, comes back to life in the scent of the same name. It is a scent of ending and rebirth, of light glinting in the dark. It recreates the bright, water-soaked chasm: moss, the heat of the sun overhead, and the cold edge of the rock and the abyss at your back. Damp earth and hard stone open the scent, bringing you to the edge of the drop. The middle, with violet leaf and bluebell, is light, like the murmur of running water. The base, with moss, sandalwood and amber, leaves something deep and lasting, like the story of Sherlock Holmes itself. A scent of ending and rebirth: damp earth and stone, softened by flowers and leaves, ending deep with moss, sandalwood and amber. Top notes: Wet Soil, Hard Rocks. Middle notes: Violet Leaf, Bluebell. Base notes: Moss, Vetivert, Sandalwood, Ambergris.

Red card for The Reichenbach Falls – The bright abyss, listing damp earth, stone, moss and sandalwood
Red card for The Reichenbach Falls – The bright abyss, listing damp earth, stone, moss and sandalwood

8. Shadow Éclat – Radiant Darkness

This is the scent Rei Nguyen wished to give to James Moriarty, and also to the darkness inside herself, or to the clouds that have drifted into her own life. Shadow Éclat and 221B are two different registers, each drawing out the beauty of opposing materials. It is her most complete composition, and will be her sixth niche fragrance. The exhibition marks the first time Shadow Éclat is presented to the public. If the notes of 221B explore the cleanness of leather and the honeyed swirl of whisky, Shadow Éclat is a version in sweet smoke, a hint of green grass and warm pepper, joined by immortelle. Radiant Darkness opens softly. You may be a little surprised that it is not as “wicked” as you might expect; instead it leads you on gently, the way James Moriarty was always a master of disguise on every street corner in London. Little by little, the smoky and green sides of the leather come through, lingering and entwined. Darkness can be gentle rather than frightening, can it not? A scent of the radiance of night: fresh, sweet with flowers and grass, ending warm with musk and leather. Top notes: Green Mandarin, Ozone, Magnolia. Middle notes: Geranium, Rose, Iris, Osmanthus Absolute. Base notes: Immortelle Absolute, Black Pepper, Suede Leather.

A red scent card on a copper-sheened mesh form against a wall of pink letter pages at the 221B exhibition
A red scent card on a copper-sheened mesh form against a wall of pink letter pages at the 221B exhibition

The solo exhibition “Letters from 221B Baker Street: Scents of Shadow” is an olfactory adventure, and an invitation to explore a world of feeling and imagination. Each scent, each story, is one piece of the larger picture of the struggle between light and darkness, between Sherlock Holmes and James Moriarty. Whoever steps inside will carry its echoes away with them for a long time.

The scents in this piece

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